Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Special effect highlights (Magma shades)



How is it done?

Prepare highlight foils by cutting them into rectangular pieces and start mixing the content.

The mixing ratio is 1 : 1.5 E.g For this case scenario were using 30 grams of magma powder and 75 ml of hydrogen peroxide.

The portion of hair that needs to be highlighted is weaved out using the edge of a tail comb

Apply mixture on the desired highlight area of the hair and gently fold it into half. Using slight pressure gently press the edges of the foil to ensure even distribution of product.

*Applying from the back to the front, Why? its because hair behind the back is usually healthier and thicker and hair from the fringe to the crown area is usually finer and its much more easier to lighten because its more exposed to damage. It is not advisable to work from front to the back as the portion that was applied may turn out lighter than desired and uneven tone if time management is not controlled properly.

*Applying 1/2 an inch from scalp. why? 9% or higher percentage of hydrogen peroxides are not advisable to be applied on the scalp directly, its because it causes skin irritation and inflammation to the scalp. In some cases burning sensation or pain may occur.

*Why 9% of hydrogen peroxide is used and not 12%?
9% takes 2-3 shades lighter and 12% is able to take 3-4 shades lighter. At present were at a base hair of black,due to the process of re-bonding that she have done last week and her hair porosity level is at medium, her hair texture is considered medium to fine. Therefore 9% is used instead of 12% to reduce its porosity and damage to her hair.


Product that was used Wella (Magma + 9% hydrogen peroxide)




*Leave the mixture on to further develop for 30 minutes, with heat reduce the time into half, for very damaged hair leave it for 15 minutes.

After time is up rinse hair and apply Magma color complete.

Finally the perfect finish Magma color complete is used to stabilize the color pigments inside the hair and it gives a perfectly balanced pH value, it ensures a more lasting tone and a more lasting deposit of color, and it gives intense shine.



Leave it to develop for a minimum of 5 minutes, and style as usual.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

10 Factors that causes hair loss, poor hair growth, weak growth of hair follicles

Age - The skin elasticity with age, causing hair to fall out prematurely. When no new hair replaces, baldness occurs.

Bacterial infection - Causes hair to drop out in clumps leaving bald patches.

Health and diet - overeating of sweet, starchy, fatty foods may cause over secretion of sebum while poor diet causes poor health and poor supply of nutrients.)

Serious illness - Certain medicine will result in some hair loss.

Genetic factors - Children may inherit hereditary traits from 1 or both parents E.g Balding pattern (Alopecia) and racial factors have a bearing on hair growth where certain groups may have certain types of hair.

Hormones balance - Hair is replaced faster at puberty than at old age

Climate and seasons - Spring and autumn may see greater hair fall. As for summer it increases hair growth.

physical conditions - Excess sweating, tension or fear, blood flow restriction affects normal hair growth

Blood circulation - The hair derives its nourishment from the blood supply. In the absence of health blood circulation, the health of hair declines.

Emotional disturbances - Or mental tension are linked to the hair health through the nervous system

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Hair structure











Cuticle

Cuticle has approximately 8-10 layers of outermost protective, overlapping flat cells. There are no pigment in cuticle dead cells. Its usually colorless, transparent cells point towards the hair end. Ceramide, like cement, is found in between the scales. It holds the cuticles in position. Chemical solutions used during perming, straightening and coloring can raise these scales so that solutions can enter into the hair shaft. It is this layer which primarily determines how much and how fast chemicals are allowed into the hair to be processed.

Cortex

The cortex is the middle of the most important layer that forms the bulk of the hair. It is this part of the hair that gives strength and elasticity.The cortex can be damaged by strong developer, perm lotion or straightening cream. Fine hair can be damaged easier than coarse hair. Protein and color pigments are found here. Hair color, light or dark, depends upon the amount of grains of melanin present in the cortex. Grey hair is due mainly to the absence of pigment in the cortical layer at the hair bulb.

Medulla

Medulla is known as the pith or marrow of hair shaft. Found in the innermost later or center of hair. It consists of very soft keratin round cells interspersed with air spaces. It is an additional deepest later in coarse hair, it is believed that it carries nutrients and other substances to the cortex and cuticle. This could explain why hair is so affected so rapidly by changes in health. The medulla may be absent in fine or very fine hair.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

How to cut a concave hairstyle

The preliminary step for getting a balanced concave is to have proper sectioning.Why is it so important? If the parting is wrong the concave will not be balanced resulting in longer hair on one side.


Start by dividing the hair into a center parting followed by a 4 section.



Ignore the top section and secure it with a pin. Followed by the bottom section, use a pin to secure the bottom right section. Use a sprinkler to damp the hair, comb through the hair for entanglement and to diffuse frizzes.

Ensure that the hair has been comb through use the edge of the pin or last finger and start weaving out a horizontal line approximately half an inch.

Gently pull hair downwards 0 degrees. Slant it to approximately 45 degrees so that u get a slant upwards guideline. The cut has to be clean so the outcome of a concave is visible, if the slant is less than 45 degrees the concave won't be visible.

Do the same for the right side this time instead of slanting upwards, slant it downwards 45 degrees and cut.

After each row of hair has been completed move upwards and repeat the following process.After completing the bottom half take the bottom slant cut as a guideline and start cutting the front.

Outcome: You will get a /\ shape.

Example of a concave :

Back









Front

Side



Condition
The fringe and the sideburns must be longer than hair behind the nape area.

Finishing touch
Dividing the hair into small sections and start blowing the hair inwards layer by layer, this is for enhancing the cut.